Un camino entre las nubes


Ascender al Desierto de las Palmas en bicicleta de montaña por cualquiera que los caminos que allí acceden es como acercarse al cielo. El Bartolo, cumbre del desierto, es un grandioso balcón al mar Mediterráneo y allí se refugiaron monjes y eremitas, alejados del mundo, para dedicarse al silencio y a la contemplación.

El desierto de las Palmas es uno de los parajes naturales más sorprendentes y aéreos de la geografía valenciana. Compuesto por una serie de montañas que se suceden encadenadas entre el corredor de Pobla Tornesa y el litoral mediterráneo, pertenecen a las últimas estribaciones de la cordillera costero-catalana y tienen, al igual que Espadán y Calderona, unas características geológicas propias.Es de los pocos lugares donde el rodeno domina el paisaje dándole el característico color rojizo, y donde además aparece, en las cumbres más elevadas, un material muy escaso en la Comunitat Valencian; la pizarra.

El Desierto de las Palmas, declarado Parque Natural Protegido por la Generalitat Valenciana en octubre de 1989, ha sufrido dos importantes incendios forestales, uno en 1985 y otro seis años después. Desde entonces, gracias a las medidas de prevención y vigilancia, el paraje se ha ido recuperando, aumentando el espesor de la cobertura vegetal, en especial las vertientes que miran al mar, que fueron las más afectadas. Las lluvias de los últimos años también han mejorado considerablemente esta situación.

Toma su nombre del topónimo desierto, que era el nombre que daban los carmelitas a los lugares solitarios y dejados de la mano de Dios, sin presencia humana, y de las Palmas por la abundancia del palmito (chamaerops humilis) única palmera autóctona europea. Es por tanto un nombre cultural, que no geográfico, en lo que se refiere a desierto humano y de las Palmas en referencia a su peculiaridad botánica. A finales del siglo XVII se levantó un monasterio para albergar a los monjes dispersos que habitaban estos montes en la soledad más absoluta y cuyas ermitas donde residían todavía se conservan. En 1783, una serie de lluvias torrenciales produjo un corrimiento de tierras que afectó seriamente la estructura del primitivo monasterio y obligó a los monjes a construir otro en un lugar más seguro, no muy lejos del antiguo.

Con el Mediterráneo al fondo, pocos lugares ofrecen al ciclista la posibilidad de pedalear entre las nubes. Pocos lugares también dan la sensación de flotar en el aire, de volar, literalmente, mientras sigues los caminos que discurren a media altura por las aristas que forman el techo del paraje y te permiten llegar al Bartolo, la cumbre más alta, coronada de antenas y repetidores que merman en parte, el encanto de una cima tan hermosa.

Entre construcciones de hierro se conserva también la ermita de San Miquel donde, según cuenta la tradición, vivía el monje de cuyo nombre toma nombre el monte. Poco antes de llegar a la cumbre, una inmensa cruz de cemento queda junto al camino cuya silueta, por las dimensiones, es visible desde muy lejos. La vista desde la cima, en un día claro es extraordinaria: se recorre con la visa desde Valencia hasta Tortosa, todo el Maestrazgo, Espadán y Penyagolosa. Las Islas Columbretes se dibujan perfectamente como grisáceas manchas sobre las Agujas de Santa Agueda. No en vano se utilizó esta cima como uno de los puntos para la medición del Meridiano Terrestre.

La técnica consistió en establecer una serie de triángulos utilizando grandes instrumentos ópticos y reflectores ubicados en las cimas cuyos vértices serían visibles entre sí. Mechain, el científico francés encargado de esta tarea, pasó noches enteras en lo alto del Bartolo esperando las señales de otros vértices. Víctima de una terrible enfermedad se refugiaría en la Pobla Tornesa y fallecería en Castellón en 1804 donde se encuentra enterrado. Biot y Aragó continuaron sus investigaciones y culminaron con éxito la medición de la longitud del Meridiano.

La vegetación, especialmente en la parte de la umbría es muy rica puesto que no se ha visto afectada por los incendios, y en las cercanías de les Santes, una preciosa ermita escondida en la cabecera del barranco del que toma el nombre, se conserva en buen estado un bosque puro, especialmente valioso por la variedad y diversidad de especies que él se encuentran, junto con un espesor que dotan de frescor este apartado rincón del Desierto.

La ermita, dedicada a las santas Lucía y Agueda, fue levantada en el siglo XVII y se utilizó como material de construcción, las piedras de rodeno extraídas del entorno más inmediato. Esta peculiaridad dota al santuario de un mimetismo y una integración total en el medio, además del extraordinario color rojizo de sus muros. Todos los años, el sábado anterior al primer domingo de Mayo, se celebra una romería en la que acuden peregrinos de Cabanes y Puebla Tornesa. Nuestra propuesta para conocer el paraje parte de la Pobla Tornesa.

Desde allí una pista ancha y en buen estado, a veces cimentada, asciende con vigorosa potencia hasta un collado donde ya se observa el mar. Unos metros después de comenzar el descenso hacia el Monasterio, y junto a una placa que indica Camino de Santiago de Castellón, una estrecha pista forestal asciende con suavidad hacia la cumbre del Bartolo.

Este camino, uno de los más deliciosos y aéreos de todo el paraje, tiene como escenario el mar Mediterráneo en toda su azulada intensidad y el cielo como techo. Una vez en las antenas, seguiremos en dirección norte, siguiendo la propia alienación de la sierra, por un camino sólo apto para ciclistas y caminantes. Este camino nos llevará en un trayecto fascinante hasta la ermita de les Santes, desde donde otra pista hacia la izquierda y en ascenso importante, sigue sin descanso hasta la Pobla Tornesa lugar que fue nuestro punto de partida. La excursión tiene unos 33 kilómetros aproximadamente y un desnivel acumulado importante.

Puede realizarse en una tarde, aunque lo preferible es dedicarle una mañana o un día entero e incluso parar a comer en el restaurante junto al monasterio, y por supuesto, visitando el Convento de los Carmelitas cuyo museo es muy recomendable. Recordemos que sí lo hacemos en esta época del año, hemos de madrugar lo suficiente para realizar la subida a primeras horas del día, antes de que el sol esté en el cenit. También podemos bajar a Castelló o a Benicassim, aunque en este caso debemos preveer alguien que nos recoja allí ya que llegaríamos muy lejos de nuestro punto de partida. El descenso hacia Benicassim puede realizarse por asfalto, o por un camino de tierra que baja más directo.

El parque natural del Desierto de las Palmas es una muestra más de las inmensas posibilidades que ofrece la geografía valenciana, cuyos paisajes alcanzan alturas importantes, sin perder de vista el mar.

Texto y fotos: jM Almerich

VN:F [1.9.3_1094]
Valoracion: 5.0/5 (1 voto)
Un camino entre las nubes, 5.0 out of 5 based on 1 rating
Categorías: Comunitat Valenciana, Excursiones
Temas: , , , , ,




Comentarios

  1. 01 18 febrero, 2011 | khach san sai gon |

    lo que es un viaje increíble que tienes! gracias por compartir este lindo

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  2. 02 17 diciembre, 2012 | Buy High Quality brazilian weave hair |

    Thank you for taking this possibility to talk about this, Personally i think strongly over it and I make use of garden greenhouse structures this subject. If at all possible, when you gain data,

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  3. 03 6 enero, 2013 | liberty reserve |

    This is the proper Un camino entre las nubesBTT | BTT journal for anyone who wants to assay out out most this substance. You attention so much its almost wearing to present with you (not that I truly would want…HaHa). You definitely put a new prolong on a content thats been statute roughly for years. Metropolis nonsense, just great!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  4. 04 1 febrero, 2013 | IM Forum |

    Very interesting points you have remarked, regards for putting up. “Whatever one man is capable of conceiving, other men will be able to achieve.” by Jules Verne.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  5. 05 2 febrero, 2013 | mind and success |

    I like this web blog it’s a master piece! Glad I found this on google.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  6. 06 18 febrero, 2013 | Genevieve Bruyn |

    I simply want to say I am just very new to blogging and really liked you’re blog. Very likely I’m going to bookmark your website . You really have incredible well written articles. Many thanks for sharing your web-site.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  7. 07 23 febrero, 2013 | dressesforbest.com |

    You really make it appear really easy along with your presentation but I to find this topic to be really one thing which I believe I¡¯d by no means understand. It kind of feels too complex and very vast for me. I¡¯m having a look ahead on your subsequent publish, I¡¯ll try to get the hold of it!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  8. 08 24 febrero, 2013 | Errol Sterett |

    A moisturizer can also be important. Even though the skin gets oily, you should utilize a daily moisturizer. An excellent approach to determine in the event you need more moisture would be to see how your skin feels about twenty minutes after you clean it, or after you shower. In case your skin feels dry as well as a tiny (or extremely) restricted, you need a lot more moisture. If you utilize a moisturizer and your skin gets really oily, attempt using a lighter moisturizer, or utilizing much less once you implement it.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  9. 09 2 marzo, 2013 | Catala53@gmail.com |

    I simply want to tell you that I am just all new to weblog and actually liked you’re web page. Very likely I’m going to bookmark your blog . You amazingly have awesome articles and reviews. Kudos for sharing with us your web page.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  10. 10 4 marzo, 2013 | Jane87323 |

    There are some fascinating closing dates in this article however I don’t know if I see all of them middle to heart. There is some validity but I will take hold opinion till I look into it further. Good article , thanks and we wish more! Added to FeedBurner as well http://betterific.blogspot.com/2013/02/four-options-to-track-roi-of-social.html

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  11. 11 8 marzo, 2013 | Kama69706 |

    Howdy! I just wish to give a huge thumbs up for the nice info you will have right here on this post. I can be coming again to your weblog for more soon.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  12. 12 14 marzo, 2013 | Chun Leiker |

    I simply want to say I am very new to weblog and absolutely enjoyed you’re website. Almost certainly I’m want to bookmark your blog . You actually have impressive writings. Cheers for sharing with us your blog site.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  13. 13 14 marzo, 2013 | Andrew A. Sailer |

    I just want to mention I am newbie to blogging and site-building and actually savored your blog. Probably I’m likely to bookmark your blog post . You amazingly have really good article content. Thanks for revealing your blog site.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  14. 14 21 marzo, 2013 | John Mchugh |

    *There is noticeably a bundle to know about this. I assume you made certain nice points in features also.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  15. 15 21 marzo, 2013 | Nestor Ishmael |

    I must thank you for the efforts you have put in writing this blog. I am hoping to check out the same high-grade blog posts from you in the future as well. In truth, your creative writing abilities has inspired me to get my very own blog now 😉

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  16. 16 22 marzo, 2013 | Kasie Torgersen |

    This is a topic which is close to my heart… Thank you! Where are your contact details though?

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  17. 17 22 marzo, 2013 | Franchesca Lamarra |

    I wanted to thank you for this great read!! I definitely loved every bit of it. I’ve got you book marked to check out new things you post…

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  18. 18 22 marzo, 2013 | Romeo Baskins |

    That is a good tip particularly to those fresh to the blogosphere. Short but very precise info… Many thanks for sharing this one. A must read article!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  19. 19 23 marzo, 2013 | Karly Zedaker |

    Good day! I could have sworn I’ve been to this website before but after looking at a few of the posts I realized it’s new to me. Nonetheless, I’m certainly pleased I stumbled upon it and I’ll be book-marking it and checking back often!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  20. 20 24 marzo, 2013 | Ted Schellhammer |

    Hi, I do believe this is an excellent blog. I stumbledupon it 😉 I may revisit yet again since I book marked it. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and continue to guide others.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  21. 21 25 marzo, 2013 | Ted Schellhammer |

    You need to take part in a contest for one of the finest websites on the net. I will highly recommend this web site!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  22. 22 26 marzo, 2013 | Drew Orbin |

    This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  23. 23 27 marzo, 2013 | Tommy Chugg |

    I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  24. 24 28 marzo, 2013 | Brice Gloster |

    Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  25. 25 28 marzo, 2013 | Chase Dusza |

    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  26. 26 29 marzo, 2013 | Virgil |

    Since my Mom’s real happy with her first batch, I was very eager to learn and document her mad skills, so here it is, enjoy!

    This can lead to some additional demand for higher-quality feeds such as lucerne and cereal hay.
    Rights are a modern fiction that was promulgated to counter abuses of duty that resulted in oppression, but that fiction has
    been taken far beyond those original good intentions. I’ve been watching BoM 7 day forecasts in Brisbane over
    this summer. One idea behind Java’s automatic memory management model is
    that programmers should be spared the burden of having to perform manual memory management.

    vip loan shop

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  27. 27 22 abril, 2013 | elephant trekking in chiang mai |

    Good day! I could have sworn I’ve been to this website before but after looking at a few of the posts I realized it’s new to me. Nonetheless, I’m certainly pleased I stumbled upon it and I’ll be book-marking it and checking back often.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  28. 28 13 febrero, 2014 | garcinia cambogia dr oz |

    garcinia cambogia reviews I like your writing style really loving this web site.
    ¡°Fools make researches and wise men exploit them.

    ¡± garcinia cambogia dr oz

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  29. 29 27 febrero, 2014 | EMMANUEL |

    Mi enhorabuena ppor un gran articulo. Hasta luego.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  30. 30 7 marzo, 2014 | advanced garcinia malaysia |

    Wօw, marvеlous blog layout! How long have you beesn Ьlogging for?
    you made blogging look easy. The overall loiok of your wеbsite is
    wonderful, let alone the content!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  31. 31 22 marzo, 2014 | garcinia cambogia pure health brand |

    Hі there everyone, it’s my first pay a qսick visit
    at tҺis աeb page, and poѕt іs iin fact fruitfl in favοr oof me,
    keep up ρosting these types of articleѕ.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  32. 32 23 marzo, 2014 | garcinia cambogia pure extract dr oz |

    Very rapjdly this web page will be famous among all
    blogging visitors, due to it’s fastidious articles or
    reviews

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  33. 33 23 marzo, 2014 | garcinia cambogia extract |

    I սsed to be аble to find good info fгom your articleѕ.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  34. 34 31 marzo, 2014 | Heather |

    I am not sure wheгe you are getting your infߋrmation, but good topic.
    I needs to spend ssome time leaгnіng more or undestanding
    morе. Thanks for great iոfo I was looking for this info for my missiߋn.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  35. 35 9 abril, 2014 | minecraft games online |

    Good day I am so excited I found your blog page, I really found you by accident, while I
    was researching on Yahoo for something else, Nonetheless I
    am here now and would just like to say cheers for a fantastic post and a all round interesting blog (I also love the
    theme/design), I don’t have time to go through it all at the
    minute but I have saved it and also added your RSS feeds, so when I have time I
    will be back to read a lot more, Please do keep up the awesome work.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  36. 36 14 abril, 2014 | Robson R. |

    Great video, Fun and succinctly explained.. Will use it an introduction when I am giving talks to genealogists and historians on blogging…I will be happy if you visit my blog and say something http://twitter-guide-1.blogspot.com/

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  37. 37 25 abril, 2014 | hot water heater nj |

    Hello, i thіnk thɑt i saw you visited my Ьog thus i came tߋ “return the faѵor”.І’m tryіng to
    find things to enhanсe my site!I suppose itss ok too use some of
    your ideas!!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  38. 38 29 abril, 2014 | Getaviciitickets.Com |

    Must be loan can readily include a great deal of hidden costs one example is interestobligations and also financial charges, some people usually keep away
    from first until it may be essential Avicii Tickets Us
    – Getaviciitickets.Com – you may want to consider a shorter-term
    unsecured loan.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  39. 39 30 abril, 2014 | avicii 2014 tour dates |

    Also, in case you sell your property, additionally you settle the credit avicii 2014 tour dates
    complete a certified driver education – a driver education course making you ready for driving for the road.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  40. 40 3 mayo, 2014 | shower head extension pipe |

    Heyaa i’m for tthe first time here. I found this board and I find
    It really useful & it helped me out much. I hope to gikve something back and aid others like you aided me.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  41. 41 5 mayo, 2014 | bathroom tiles |

    I haѵe read so many ɑrticles or reviews about the blogger lovers
    but this piece оf writing iis truly a good piece of writing, keep it up.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  42. 42 11 mayo, 2014 | Lelean |

    I wonder why everybody reacts to the issue like this, come on people chillout.You can get my almost free Logos for your website — http://logodesign123.blogspot.com/2014/04/get-eye-popping-ready-made-logos-almost.html

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  43. 43 19 mayo, 2014 | Jaleesa Zeimet |

    I have a similar passion for such issues. What do you think tomorrow holds for us?

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  44. 44 27 mayo, 2014 | gta pc download full |

    It doesn

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  45. 45 10 septiembre, 2014 | teacher bracelet charm |

    Hello everybody, here every one is sharing these experience, so it’s fastidious
    to read this website, and I used to pay a visit this web site everyday.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  46. 46 20 octubre, 2014 | air cleaner |

    Hi there! This blog post couldn’t be written much better!

    Looking through this article reminds me of my previous roommate!

    He always kept preaching about this. I will forward this post to
    him. Fairly certain he will have a great read. Many thanks for sharing!

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  47. 47 23 octubre, 2014 | iphone Headphones |

    Admiring the commitment you put into your blog and detailed information you offer.
    It’s great to come across a blog every once in a while that isn’t the same old rehashed information. Excellent read!
    I’ve saved your site and I’m including your RSS feeds
    to my Google account.

    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)



Comentarios

Puedes utilizar las etiquetas más habituales de XHTML en tu comentario.

Formulario para comentar

Loguearme con Facebook

Nombre
Email (no será publicado)
Sitio web
Comentario

Suscribirse a la los comentarios (recibirás un mail cada vez que alguien responda).


Suscripción

Suscripción RSS - Icono RSS Suscribirse RSS / Feed

Suscríbete a través de tu dirección de correo electrónico.

José Manuel Almerich

José Manuel AlmerichEscritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]

leer más