Los pescadores del Palmar


José Manuel Almerich, autor de este blog, invitado por la Comunidad de Pescadores del Palmar para extraer las bolas del histórico sorteo de los puestos de pesca en el lago de la Albufera.

– José Mariano Bru Marco!!!

– Cap avant de les Bovetes raere dalt!!!

– Manuel San Ambrosio!!!

– Cap enrere del vallet!!!

– Salvador Marco Bru!!!

– Cap en terra de les bonetes en raere!!!

Y así, uno por uno, los pescadores del Palmar van eligiendo sus puestos a medida que se les nombra por sorteo. Los primeros han sido afortunados: este año el azar les permitirá obtener mayores beneficios puesto que en los lugares elegidos, la pesca es más abundante. La última en elegir, Felicidad Dasi, recién incorporada por derecho a la Comunidad, renunciará a la pesca. No le valdrá la pena.

Hace cincuenta años, el primero en elegir se habría hecho rico, para el último, este sorteo lo condenaba al hambre y a la miseria. El peor puesto, el Perellonet Nou, era un lugar compartido con once pescadores más y por tanto los recursos, quedaban muy limitados. Trece siglos se ha mantenido la tradición, respetada y consensuada por todos, y la Comunidad de Pescadores, al igual que el Tribunal de las Aguas, sigue viva como una institución ancestral al servicio de unas gentes y el paisaje creado por ellos.

Por eso, cuando tuve el honor de ser el invitado a extraer las bolas del sorteo, en el centro de esta isla rodeada de cañas y de barro, de olor a sauce y arrozales espigados, me sentí un afortunado de la historia. Bajo las miradas de cientos de ojos crispados por los destellos del lago y por las noches de pesca a la luz de la luna. A pesar de los siglos transcurridos y la degradación de la Albufera, esta tradición que fue esencial para su supervivencia, sigue convocando, año tras año a los pescadores de raza, a aquellos que solo el linaje de sangre les da derecho a la pesca.

Los lugares donde se establecen els redolins, tienen nombres sugerentes, muy antiguos;  topónimos cuyo origen se pierde en el tiempo y evocan épocas de abundancia de anguilas capturadas a la fosca o la moliná con el paraguas de revés, o mornells repletos de llisas plateadas que eran vendidas en los mercados del Cabañal y de Ruzafa: la junquereta, cap avant del Puig  Pelat, l’entreforc, el fornas… Y así hasta setenta y tres puestos de pesca distribuidos a lo largo y ancho del lago más grande de la Península Ibérica. Hasta hace apenas unas décadas, la Albufera contaba con trescientos redolins y en el pueblo del Palmar, todos vivían de la pesca. En los años sesenta se pescaba, en una sola noche, lo que ahora se pesca entre todos los puestos en un año. La contaminación, los sedimentos y la colmatación del lago que fue poco a poco convertido en campos de arroz, junto con las poblaciones que lo rodean y la industria, convirtieron la Albufera en un gran estercolero, en un pozo sin fondo que ahora, tras mucho esfuerzo, se ha conseguido recuperar. Con las últimas lluvias y las depuradoras ya en funcionamiento, la calidad del agua ha mejorado sustancialmente, pero sobre los árboles de la dehesa se asoman, como monstruos gigantescos, los colmillos de una urbanización que hubiese acabado con la zona húmeda y el paisaje de dunas más importante de Europa después de Doñana. La frágil y estrecha franja de arena que separa el lago del mar, se mantiene hoy como el único parque natural al que podemos acceder siguiendo un carril bici desde la misma ciudad del Turia, y tras seguir la línea de costa, adentrarnos en el bosque mediterráneo de la Dehesa hasta el casal d’Esplai donde se conserva la última franja virgen de costa de Valencia,  para volver, si queremos, cruzando el lago en un barco de vela latina al atardecer.

Porque a pesar de todo, el paisaje en la Albufera nunca ha desaparecido y las puestas de sol siguen siendo sobrecogedoras cuando los últimos destellos de fuego se esconden tras las montañas del interior. El lluent, como lo llamaban los árabes, es todavía un inmenso y dilatado cuadro impresionista, un gigantesco lienzo plateado donde quedó atrapada la luz y de la que se siguen nutriendo nuestros artistas.

Los pescadores del Palmar, como elementos inseparables de este entorno, son gente sencilla y honesta, que no desean más jaleo que el que se monta el mismo día del sorteo. Este año me han invitado a sacar de los envejecidos sacos, las boletas con el nombre del pescador que en su día,  le hubiese dado la mayor alegría de su vida. El interés por participar en un acto que ya participaron sus abuelos, y los abuelos de sus abuelos, dota al sorteo de un carácter festivo que se acentúa cada vez que en el bombo giran las pequeñas bolas de madera en cuyo interior se esconde un papelito con el nombre escrito a mano de los pescadores que poco a poco voy nombrando. Y siempre, creyentes o no, los pescadores invocan  un sonoro “Ave María” en gratitud por haberles concedido un buen puesto que les permitirá algunos ingresos adicionales y mejorar así sus escasas pensiones. Sobre todo, si el redolí se sitúa en zona de paso de anguilas y lubinas, cada vez más escasas en el lago. Sus expresiones, quizá por la edad,  hace años que apenas se inmutan y sus rostros, quemados por el sol y curtidos por el viento, parecen tener la textura del cuero envejecido.

Mientras se van sentando, esconden sus miradas de la curiosidad del forastero y de las cámaras de televisión que han podido acceder al recinto. Sus ojos, crispados, brillan con la espera como si por ellos se quisiera asomar el alma. Estar aquí frente a los pescadores es como volver siglos atrás cuando los primeros habitantes del Palmar vivían del lago. No sé si recordáis de la infancia, los rostros de nuestros mayores; esos rostros de hombres buenos, que trabajaban la tierra y vivían de ella. Esas caras avezadas, sinceras, de manos encallecidas y resignadas al esfuerzo y al paso de los años. Pepe, el Juano, como su padre, sigue siendo el presidente de los pescadores. Su rostro, como ellos, de ojos pequeños y barba recortada. Hombre de pocas palabras y largos silencios, como en el que se queda sumido el lago  tras el paso de las garzas para dormir en la dehesa.

Junto con el Tribunal de las Aguas, la Comunidad de Pescadores del Palmar es la Institución de Derecho Consuetudinario Valenciano de mayor antigüedad, y sus ordenanzas datan de 1250 por el mismo rey Jaime I, quien asume costumbres no escritas ya establecidas. Por su peculiaridad jurídica, la Comunidad de Pescadores no tiene fácil encaje en la situación actual y ello provoca profundas contradicciones. Aún así, se pudo ir adaptando a la nueva sociedad y en los años cuarenta y cincuenta todavía exportaba lubinas y anguilas al resto de Europa. Tras el deterioro del lago y la dehesa a partir de los años setenta, la pesca descendió en la proporción de cien kilos a uno, que es el que se mantiene en la actualidad.  De trescientos puestos de pesca se quedaron setenta y tres,  y las noches de tormenta en que llegaban a capturarse hasta doscientas arrobas de pescado en un solo redolí, han pasado a la historia. De la angula nadie habla, pero hoy es un delito capturarla y de las lubinas, apenas quedan testimonios. La última nutria de la Albufera fue capturada a finales del siglo XIX.

La Albufera de Valencia es uno de los paisajes más sublimes del territorio penínsular. Su horizontalidad infinita y su comunión con el mar,  le dota de una aureola fascinante y acaparadora,  engrandecida por las tonalidades de la luz que cambia a medida que se acerca el crepúsculo. Atravesando los campos de arroz cuando han sido inundados, te sientes inmerso en un país más cercano al lejano oriente que a Europa, en un edén como aquel que cantaban los poetas andalusíes.

El Palmar  no es sólo un lugar donde ir a comer arroz a banda los fines de semana. Las casas restauradas no guardan el equilibrio arquitectónico que nos gustaría porque quizás porque nunca lo tuvo. Porque fue una pedanía pobre donde la gente vivía en barracas con techumbre de cañas y barro hasta mediados de los años cincuenta. La miseria fue la sombra que oscureció la población hasta que convirtieron el arroz y el “all i pebre” en motores de su economía. El Palmar es bastante más que lo que parece. Son los atardeceres  desde el Campot y los conciertos que allí se hacían en verano, los paseos en barca y las cenas en mitad del lago antes de la puesta de sol. Las regatas de vela latina y los caminos  zigzagueantes que nos llevan hasta la montanyeta dels Sants. Son las acequias y el mar, los lentiscos azotados por el viento de levante y las dunas recuperadas junto als malladars. Playas desiertas y algún hotel donde poder descansar. Una estampa tópica pero real, cuya cercanía a veces nos hace verlo con poca objetividad. Un parque natural para recorrer en bici una tarde cualquiera hasta donde acaban los caminos. Dejarse llevar por los sentidos y navegar junto a buenos amigos desde el puerto de Silla o Catarroja hasta la mata del Fang. Porque, por muy trivial que parezca, el Palmar es algo más, es la esencia de una parte importante de nuestra cultura que se ha forjado junto  al mar. Pero somos nosotros y sus propios habitantes, los primeros que lo hemos de valorar.

Os adjunto algunas fotos más.

Juzgad vosotros mismos

VER TODAS LAS IMAGENES

Texto y fotografías:  José Manuel Almerich

 

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Los pescadores del Palmar, 5.0 out of 5 based on 2 ratings
Categorías: Comunitat Valenciana, Lugares con encanto, Nuestros protagonistas
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    a {site|{blog|website}|site|website} or {I have|if I have} something to {add|contribute|valuable to contribute}
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    {seek|search} engines|Google} for {now not|not|no longer} positioning this {post|submit|publish|put up} {upper|higher}!

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    Thanks for {great|wonderful|fantastic|magnificent|excellent} {information|info} I was looking
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    VA:F [1.9.3_1094]
    Rating: 0 (from 0 votos)


  44. 44 5 marzo, 2014 | michael kors taschen |

    {
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    made good content as you did, the {internet|net|web} will
    be {much more|a lot more} useful than ever before.|
    I {couldn’t|could not} {resist|refrain from} commenting.
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    referring to this article. I {want to|wish to|desire to} read {more|even more}
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    {It is|It’s} {appropriate|perfect|the best} time to make {a few|some} plans for {the
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    {things|issues} {approximately|about} it!|
    {I have|I’ve} been {surfing|browsing} {online|on-line} {more than|greater than} {three|3} hours {these
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    {In my opinion|Personally|In my view}, if all {webmasters|site owners|website owners|web owners}
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    {you did|you probably did}, the {internet|net|web} {will
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    lot more} {useful|helpful} than ever before.|
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    I am sure this {article|post|piece of writing|paragraph} has touched all the internet
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    {fast|quick} for me on {Safari|Internet explorer|Chrome|Opera|Firefox}.
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    These are {really|actually|in fact|truly|genuinely} {great|enormous|impressive|wonderful|fantastic} ideas in {regarding|concerning|about|on the topic
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    Any way keep up wrinting.|
    {I love|I really like|I enjoy|I like|Everyone loves} what you guys {are|are usually|tend to be}
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    I’ve {incorporated||added|included} you guys to {|my|our||my personal|my own} blogroll.|
    {Howdy|Hi there|Hey there|Hi|Hello|Hey}! Someone in my {Myspace|Facebook} group shared this {site|website}
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    I’m {book-marking|bookmarking} and will be tweeting this to my followers!
    {Terrific|Wonderful|Great|Fantastic|Outstanding|Exceptional|Superb|Excellent}
    blog and {wonderful|terrific|brilliant|amazing|great|excellent|fantastic|outstanding|superb} {style and design|design and style|design}.|
    {I love|I really like|I enjoy|I like|Everyone loves} what you guys {are|are usually|tend to
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    Keep up the {superb|terrific|very good|great|good|awesome|fantastic|excellent|amazing|wonderful} works guys
    I’ve {incorporated|added|included} you guys to {|my|our|my personal|my own} blogroll.|
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    P.S {My apologies|Apologies|Sorry} for {getting|being} off-topic but I had to ask!|
    {Howdy|Hi there|Hi|Hey there|Hello|Hey} would you mind letting me know which {webhost|hosting company|web host}
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    {Thanks a lot|Kudos|Cheers|Thank you|Many thanks|Thanks}, I appreciate it!|
    {I love|I really like|I like|Everyone loves} it {when people|when individuals|when folks|whenever people} {come together|get together} and
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    Thank you for the {auspicious|good} writeup. It in fact was a amusement account it.

    Look advanced to {far|more} added agreeable from you!
    {By the way|However}, how {can|could} we communicate?|
    {Howdy|Hi there|Hey there|Hello|Hey} just wanted to give you a quick heads up.
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    This is a topic {that is|that’s|which is} {close to|near to} my heart…
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    {Hola|Hey there|Hi|Hello|Greetings}! I’ve been {following|reading} your {site|web
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    Did you {create|develop|make|build} {this website|this site|this web site|this amazing
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    {Hi there|Hello there|Howdy}! This {post|article|blog post} {couldn’t|could not} be written {any better|much better}!
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José Manuel Almerich

José Manuel AlmerichEscritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]

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