La Vall de Pop


TRAVESIA1

Cuatro días de intenso Mountain Bike por la Vall de Pop, una pequeña porción de tierra tapizada de viñedos, salpicada de torres y campanarios y con pueblos blancos dominando el valle. En nuestro viaje de prueba por lo que será el futuro Centro de BTT la Vall de Pop, seguimos en tren hasta Calpe y de ahí remontamos las sierras de Oltá, Bernia y el carrascar de Parcent que atravesamos ya bien entrada la noche.

Cierro los ojos y me retiro, discretamente, hacia un rincón de la bodega. Me alejo del resto de mis amigos y trato de abstraerme, de aislarme totalmente. Como no entiendo de vinos, quiero saborear sin más sentidos que el gusto, un Fondillón envejecido en barril de roble francés durante veinticinco años.

El mismo Don Felipe lo ha extraído sólo para nosotros. Igual que también me ha obsequiado con un libro, que me ha dado casi a escondidas, firmado y dedicado por Camilo José Cela quien refleja, en su propio estilo, lo que significó para él probar este mismo vino que fue declarado, el mejor vino dulce de España.  Tengo que reconocer que su elaboración es una obra de arte. Y como tampoco entiendo de arte, sólo sé, como el vino, si me gusta o no me gusta.

Entre las distintas sensaciones que su cata me produce, y esto no lo pone la etiqueta,  me transmite el aroma del mar, la dulzura de la miel, toques de plantas  aromáticas y la brisa de la montaña. Siento también un discreto sabor a romero, tomillo y ajedrea, a la lluvia recién caída y al moscatel cultivado a setecientos metros de altura. Y de fondo,  ese olor a roble que queda en la copa una vez consumido y que procede, de los antaño bosques de la Borgoña.

Somos amantes del vino -nos dice don Felipe- pero no esclavos de él. Aleja de nosotros la preocupación, pero no huimos de ella. Y de las preocupaciones precisamente hace días que nos alejamos cuando decidimos, a mitad semana, escaparnos para recorrer en bici las montañas de la Marina.  Esas montañas tan nuestras en que las viñas forman parte del paisaje y los muros de piedra seca lo elevan al cielo. Porque un sorbo del vino de Parcent resumía, en unos instantes, todas las sensaciones que hemos vivido durante estos días. Porque las montañas que esconden la Vall de Pop, áridas, escarpadas y vigorosas, han sido el escenario de nuestra última aventura. Y las Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega fueron tan sólo, el broche final a una sucesión íntima de paisajes y sorpresas. Y si en el Maserof fueron capaces de tratarnos como reyes, incluso nos sentamos a comer en tronos nobles del siglo XVII, la naturaleza nos trataría igual que nosotros a ella, con respeto y cariño. Cariño que estas frágiles tierras saben transmitir a aquel que pasa sin rozarla, y que la cruza robando tan sólo, el aire que respira. Aire que como joyas nos llevamos con el perfume de las plantas aromáticas que también forman parte del vino.

La Vall de Pop es una pequeña porción de tierra tapizada de viñedos, salpicada de torres y campanarios y con pueblos blancos dominando el valle. Atravesada por un río que no es río hasta que se enfada, y con una historia cargada de culturas que hicieron propio este escenario. Alejado del mar, como escondido de él, aquí se producía el moscatel que convertido en pasa era embarcado en el puerto de Dénia y transportado a Londres desde donde se comercializaba a todo el mundo. A la hora del té, los pasteles ingleses se elaboraban con pasas de Parcent, Bernia y el Montgó. Y durante generaciones, la pasa fue el más preciado de los elementos de repostería. El origen de su elaboración se pierde en la cultura de la supervivencia, de aquella probablemente morisca que convirtió el higo el pan, la calabaza en arnadí y  de la almendra el mejor turrón.

Durante poco más de cuatro días recorrimos los caminos que transportaban las pasas al mar y que ahora permiten llevar la uva a las bodegas. Ismael, nuestro amigo y padre protector, no sabía qué hacer para complacernos y consiguió que su hotel Casa Julia se convirtiera en nuestra casa. Y nuestro buen amigo Ángel nos obsequió, para no perder fuerzas, con un arroz de verduritas, sepia fresca y alcachofas.

Partimos de Dénia el mismo jueves nada menos que veinte de mis mejores amigos, en una de las convocatorias más exitosas que recuerdo para convencerles que viajar es como respirar en la vida cotidiana. Y desde el primer día también, ha sido una de las travesías más intensas de los últimos años en las que la bici vuelve a ser, una vez más, un medio de transporte más que una finalidad deportiva. La única forma de adentrarnos, silenciosa y respetuosamente, en este paisaje sagrado que se alza como un anfiteatro junto al Mediterráneo.

Seguimos en tren hasta Calpe, y de ahí remontamos las sierras de Oltá, Bernia, Marnes y el carrascar de Parcent que atravesamos ya, bien entrada la noche. Ismael con su sonrisa nos recibió como un padre inquieto y feliz y allí, en Casa Julia, descansamos del esfuerzo. A la mañana siguiente contemplamos, con las calmas de enero, el extraordinario horizonte de siluetas recortadas, picos y sierras, y llegamos desde fondo del río al collado de la Garga que fue, hace doscientos años, el último reducto de los moriscos valencianos.

Escenario de batallas donde el cielo azul y el sol de invierno parecen mecer la historia y suavizar los trágicos sucesos que allí tuvieron lugar. Y así, hora tras hora, y día tras día, saboreamos como el esfuerzo del escalador que sufre con placer, todo lo que este valle nos puede ofrecer. Estrenamos lo que será el futuro centro de BTT y volvimos días después al mar por la Vall de Ebo y la sierra de la Almiserá.

La sierra de Segaria al norte y el Montgó al sur fueron las últimas montañas que pudimos contemplar a vista de pájaro antes de dejarnos caer hacia las llanuras litorales, multiplicados con nuevos amigos que se habían ido incorporando a la aventura. El carril bici junto a la marjal de Pego y la antigua vía de ferrocarril Carcaixent-Dénia nos guiaron,  como las aguas de lluvia, a la mar de Dénia. Y allí, en Marqués de Campo, a punto de embarcar como los navíos repletos de pasas, finalizamos el viaje con un soberbio arroz al horno cocinado a fuego lento en el Comercio.

No sé si ha sido deporte, gastronomía, cultura o paisaje. Quizá todo a la vez y a partes iguales. Como el vino de don Felipe. Cuando el último día visitamos las bodegas, seguimos todo el ritual que el evento merecía. Desde la cocina alicantina del siglo XVI con horno de leña, hasta el patio andalusí pasando por un claustro de origen medieval, entramos como monjes a la sacristía del placer, donde los ladrillos mudéjares guardaban el tesoro.

Todo un orden geométrico donde se suceden las etapas de nuestra historia.  Y allí, como una combinación de arte y cultura, los vinos maduran entre notas de ópera y música clásica que nunca deja de sonar. Ha sido un privilegio saborear los mejores vinos de la mano del maestro, quien consiguió darles personalidad propia. Casta Diva, Cosecha Miel, Furtiva Lágrima, Fondillón Reserva o Recóndita Armonía son nombres que evocan, como el crianza Viña Ulises , nuestro fantástico viaje.  Como le dijo un día Camilo José Cela, “tus vinos, amigo Felipe, de tan literarias y cultas connotaciones, son mis vinos”

Ahí van las fotos. Espero que os gusten

Texto e imágenes: José Manuel Almerich

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Valoracion: 5.0/5 (5 votos)
La Vall de Pop, 5.0 out of 5 based on 5 ratings
Categorías: Comunitat Valenciana, Eventos, Grandes travesías, Lugares con encanto, Noticias
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Comentarios

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José Manuel Almerich

José Manuel AlmerichEscritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]

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