La huerta de Rojales


Campos cultivados con el agua del Segura, dunas que se mueven al ritmo del viento, montañas de sal y lagunas inmensas como extraños oasis reflejando el cielo, forman parte de un escenario donde se mezcla el paisaje creado por el hombre y los humedales impenetrables donde pasan el invierno las aves migratorias.

La huerta histórica de Rojales y Guardamar.

Las mujeres iban a lavar al río Segura. Allí se encontraban de forma cotidiana y comentaban los acaeceres diarios. Aquel río que se contempla todavía en fotos de color sepia, sigue siendo el mismo, pero su entorno ha cambiado totalmente. La población de Rojales ha crecido y a lo largo del cauce se han desarrollado los centros sociales, económicos y culturales de la nueva ciudad. Una ciudad moderna levantada a fuerza de dominar y controlar el agua. Puentes y pasarelas transcurren a lo largo del río pero el patrimonio de mayor relevancia, es el Conjunto Monumental Hidráulico Urbano de la Villa, conformado por el gran azud, las boqueras de la acequia, la Noria y un extraordinario puente de sillería construido por Carlos III. El azud, en forma de corona circular con una longitud de cuarenta metros y diez de anchura, se construyó en el siglo XVI con la finalidad de desviar el agua por el canal de captura.

Seguiría la noria de Bernarda que también se instala en el río para aprovechar el azud, y se fortifica con un obra de sillería a fin de que no sea dañada por las crecidas. Con esta rueda, se conseguía elevar el agua y regar las tierras altas de la margen derecha del río. Por último el impresionante puente que sirve de calzada y está compuesto por dos planos inclinados y tres ojos bajo bóvedas de arco rebajado, se proyectan sobre magníficos pilares. Pilares de sillería que fueron levantados en el siglo XVIII e hicieron que el puente fuese durante el resto de la historia, una pieza clave en la economía y referencia artística de la comarca.

La necesidad del agua, y lo que la gente ha trabajado para su aprovechamiento, se aprecia también en los Aljibes de Gasparito, situados en el parque del Ladrillar. Se construyeron como grandes embalses subterráneos para comercializar el agua de lluvia que suele ser torrencial en primavera y otoño. El sistema hidráulico se concibió para recoger la que se canalizaba por dos acequias a cielo abierto de más de un kilómetro de longitud cada una, que bordeaban las laderas del cerro del Cabezo del Molino. Estas acequias confluyen en una alberca circular desde donde toman el agua las bocas monumentales de los aljibes subterráneos rectangulares excavados en la montaña. Son los únicos aljibes antiguos destinados a almacenar el agua para luego venderla. Allí acudían los aguadores de Rojales y de los pueblos de los alrededores. La contemplación de uno de estos aljibes resulta cuanto menos, impresionante y su capacidad se estima en más de dos millones en litros. Próximo a los aljibes se alza un molino de viento datado en el siglo XIX, una de las construcciones más interesantes de la arquitectura preindustrial de la villa. Su acertada restauración le ha aportado los dos pisos originarios, así como la maquinaria y los engranajes interiores que hacen que hoy, en pleno siglo XXI, siga funcionando.

Pero si la muestra de la arquitectura hidráulica es un elemento atractivo, más lo son las rutas que siguen las huertas y que hunden sus raíces en las técnicas musulmanas, donde quedaron las normas para la colonización de tierras regadas, las técnicas para cultivar y la distribución equitativa del agua. Un mosaico rico y multicolor donde se aplican, como en la Vega de Valencia, los derechos y deberes comunales en cuanto al regadío. La tierra y el agua van unidas de forma indisoluble. 

La creación del Museo de la Huerta en una antigua hacienda, hizo que se ampliase todo lo relacionado con la cultura agrícola de la ribera del Segura, desde Rojales a Guardamar. En el museo podemos ver las salas dedicadas a oficios artesanos característicos de Rojales como fueron el trabajo del cáñamo, la fabricación de helados, la apicultura, las herramientas de labranza y la apicultura. También se conserva en el complejo, una de las últimas almazaras de sangre que se mantuvieron activas en el término.

Las cuevas del Rodeo

Los habitantes de Rojales de condición más humilde siempre fueron intuitivos para aprovechar el medio natural. A finales del siglo XIX excavaron la tierra de los cerros al sur del pueblo y, aprovechando la pendiente, construyeron sus casas en cuevas. El habitáculo lo cubrieron con capas de cal, y según las necesidades de la familia, profundizaban más en el laberinto subterráneo, que tenía chimenea de mampostería trabada con yeso y en forma de cono truncado. También poseían a la entrada una plataforma formada por la tierra extraída donde se tendía la ropa, se formaban tertulias y florecían, igual que hoy, geranios y murcianas.

Las cuevas se fueron desarrollando como una trama urbana y formaron cuatro conjuntos unidos por caminos. Con la emigración a mediados del siglo XX, las más de un centenar de cuevas quedaron abandonadas  y en 1991, el proyecto del arqueólogo Manuel de Gea las devolvió a la vida, iniciándose el proceso de rehabilitación e instalándose artesanos que convirtieron las cuevas en talleres. La condición municipal para que fuesen cedidas gratuitamente a los artistas, es que realizasen actividades para escolares. Hoy, el barrio del Rodeo, con sus diecisiete cuevas excavadas, recuerda el bullicio artesanal de las medinas musulmanas. En el interior de esta montaña, totalmente perforada como una pequeña Capadocia caliza, viven y trabajan los artistas: pintores, escultores, ceramistas y artesanos donde además, exponen y venden sus obras. Trajes de papel, cerámica con decoración incisa, alfarería, cuadros y exposiciones temporales conforman uno de los conjuntos artísticos más originales de Europa.

La ruta verde de Rojales.

La ruta verde se inicia desde el centro de Rojales para seguir por el camino de la Tejera, que va próximo a la acequia de los Frailes. Numerosas acequias conducen a fincas de naranjos, a algunas barracas, a casas que se alzan entre moreras y a huertas cuidadas con primor, con pequeños diques para nivelar el flujo del agua y con surcos en la tierra. La casa de Marabú, de Vilorines, de Roca son hitos representativos en la ruta. Podemos finalizar en el Museo de la Huerta, antigua hacienda de don Florencio, en la partida de Saavedra.

Tourist Info Rojales, Tel. 966715001

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  105. 108 6 febrero, 2015 | Genie |

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José Manuel Almerich

José Manuel AlmerichEscritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]

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