El Valle del Riu Cervol


Una travesía en bici de montaña desde Morella hasta Peñíscola siguiendo el valle del Riu Cervol.

En esta ocasión os voy a describir la ruta kilómetro a kilómetro. Ni tracks ni rutómetros. La  descripción de la ruta, como hacíamos antes, y con el mapa. La intución y la experiencia harán el restro.

El recorrido no tiene problemas. Es fácil aunque hay que prestar atección al kilometraje, pero sobre todo, al sentido común y a la prudencia. Llegar a Peñíscola tres días después, habiendo atravesado el último valle fluvial sin intervención humana en su cauce, es una experiencia sobrecogedora por los lugares que pasamos y por los pueblos anclados en el silencio.

Morella, Vallibona, Rosell, Traiguera, Cervera del Maestre y la misma Peñíscola, disponen de suficientes ofertas de alojamiento para convertir esta excursión en unas pequeñas vacaciones.

Ahí va la Ruta. Espero que la disfrutéis, y espero también que toméis las precauciones adecuadas. Con el equipo adecuado, ahora en invierno puede ser una experiencia inolvidable

LA VALL DEL RIU CERVOL

El río Cervol es el único río de la Comunitat Valenciana que no tiene ninguna intervención humana que haya modificado su curso ni ningún embalse que retenga sus aguas. Aguas que, por otro lado, pocas veces llegan al mar ya que por su régimen mediterráneo, de veranos secos y otoños lluviosos, tan sólo durante las fuertes avenidas parece realmente un río. Durante el resto del año es tan sólo una rambla por la que el agua en todo caso, circula por el subsuelo.

El riu Cervol nace en el puerto de Torre Miró, en las cercanías de la noble y fiel ciudad de Morella. Aprovecha en su tortuoso circular una brecha fallada, un gran valle que no tiene apariencia de tal y que abrupto y complejo, no ha permitido su cultivo ni el asentamiento en su cauce a excepción de Vallibona, que como ciudad medieval vinculada a Morella, fue lugar de paso importante y tuvo un papel económico fundamental durante varios siglos. La fabricación de jabón, paños y la elaboración de carbón fueron durante muchos años la principal actividad de esta preciosa población, sin lugar a dudas, la más hermosa y mejor conservada dels Ports y una de las más bellas de toda la Comunitat Valenciana.

En la configuración paisajística dels Ports, el valle del Cervol es una unidad geomorfológica independiente, muy diferenciada de las muelas o tossals que componen el resto.

Saldremos de la ciudad de Morella por la puerta de Sant Miquel. Seguiremos dirección hacia el acueducto.

  • Km. 0         Morella. Saldremos de la ciudad por el Portal de Sant Miquel.
  • Km. 0,4      Pasaremos por debajo de uno de los arcos del Acueducto Medieval que suministraba agua a la ciudad.
  • Km. 0,6      Seguimos de frente. Hay un cartel que indica “Sólo acceso a fincas”
  • Km. 1,4      Llegamos a un tramo asfaltado de la vieja carretera. Podemos seguir  a  la derecha para luego salir ya a la carretera nacional.
  • Km. 1,6      Llegamos a la nueva carretera nacional Vinaroz-Zaragoza. Suele haber una cadena para evitar que los coches entren y salgan por aquí. Seguimos la carretera nacional hacia la izquierda, en ascenso. Mucho cuidado pues aunque no es una carretera muy transitada, los vehículos suelen ir rápido. Tan sólo la vamos a seguir durante dos kilómetros.
  • Km. 3,6      Muy importante. Nos desviamos hacia la derecha dejando ya por fin la carretera. Vemos la Font de Vinatxos algo apartada. Dejamos el desvío a la Font de Vinatxos y continuamos por una pista que se desvía algo más adelante a la derecha, en ascenso y asfaltada.
  • Km. 3,7      Seguimos conforme la descripción anterior esta pista asfaltada a la derecha, la vieja carretera se corta unos metros más adelante. Vamos en direccción hacia el Mas de la Carcellera.
  • Km. 3,8      Seguimos por asfalto siguiendo la principal.
  • Km. 4,5      Vamos hacia la izquierda en dirección hacia el Mas de la Carcellera. Hay un cartel de la Fundación Els Ports, que indica: Ruta 1 hacia Vallibona. Seguimos por el camino asfaltado.
  • Km. 5         Pasamos junto a una antena.
  • Km. 5,5      Pasamos junto a una construcción y comenzamos a descender. Ya vemos al fondo el profundo valle del riu Cervol.
  • Km. 7,4      A nuestra izquierda, alejado del camino vemos el Mas de la Carcellera.
  • Km. 7,6      Seguimos de frente por camino de tierra descartando un desvío a nuestra izquierda que lleva al Mas. Hay de nuevo un cartel que indica: Ruta 1.
  • Km. 9,1      Paso canadiense para evitar que se escape el ganado. Salimos de la finca de la Carcellera. Pasos de este tipo encontraremos en toda la travesía.
  • Km. 10,2    Pasamos junto al Mas de Arrufat que queda junto al camino.
  • Km. 11,2    Mas de les Solanes. Queda a nuestra derecha algo alejado del camino dominando una amplia perspectiva sobre un vallecillo colgado aprovechado para el cultivo desde muy antiguo. En sus cercanías se hallaron a principios de siglo restos arqueológicos de la Edad del Bronce y de la época romana.
  • Km. 12,1    Collado
  • Km. 12,3    Queda un pequeño mas a la derecha
  • Km. 12,7    Mas de En Serra
  • Km. 12,8    Seguimos por la pista principal descartando un desvío a la izquierda que se adentra por un barranco.
  • Km. 13,6    Tras un ascenso llegamos a un amplio collado donde podemos observar los terribles efectos de una repoblación. Si miramos hacia la izquierda según el sentido de la marcha, veremos un bosque natural autóctnono, en pleno proceso de recuperación y a la otra parte de la pista, una plantación de pinos. Un bosque es una sociedad, una repoblación, es un ejército. Seguimos de frente siguiendo por la pista principal descartando los desvíos a derecha e izquierda. Hay también un cartel de la Ruta 1.
  • Km. 14,8    Pasamos junto a un mas
  • Km. 17,2    Mas de Argilés
  • Km. 17,9    Seguimos hacia la derecha por la pista principal que desciende en dirección hacia Vallibona. La pista en buen estado que asciende hacia la izquierda se dirige a Castell de Cabres.
  • Km. 20,4    Ya vemos al fondo la población de Vallibona junto al Cervol. Seguimos descendiendo.
  • Km. 20,5    Mas de Grao. Está habitado (2001) y en él guardan ganado.
  • Km. 21,6    Descendemos bruscamente para cruzar el barranc de la Gatellera y  para seguirlo por un cañón espectacular hasta Vallibona.
  • Km. 22,4    Entramos a la población por la parte alta y llegamos hasta la plaza de San Antonio. Éste es un buen lugar para descansar, tomar unas cervezas en el bar o refrescarnos en la fuente. También es un excelente pueblo para pasar la noche, tanto en el hostal la Carbonera, ubicado en la misma plaza, como en alguna de sus encantadoras casas rurales. Vamos en dirección a Rosell cruzando la plaza y saliendo de ella por el camino asfaltado que se dirige hacia esta población.
  • Km. 32,4    Muy importante. Si queremos visitar la iglesia de Santo Domingo, deberemos desviarnos por un camino asfaltado hacia la izquierda unos 500 m. La visita bien vale la pena ya que el Santuario y todo el conjunto es de una belleza sorprendente. Impresiona, tanto por su ubicación como por el entorno en el que se levantó, además de por la sobriedad del edificio. También son impresionantes las encinas que envuelven el conjunto. Recordemos desconectar el ciclocomputador para proseguir mejor la ruta. Seguiremos pues por la estrecha carretera asfaltada en dirección a Rosell.
  • Km. 35,8    Font de la Fou. En una curva muy cerrada y junto a la misma carretera en el mismo centro del barranco, se encuentra la fuente que suele ser muy caudalosa. Junto a ella también está el antiguo camino, hoy una vieja senda, que subía a Bell.
  • Km. 40,5    Llegamos al alto del Collado. Ya vemos al fondo la población de Rosell y también el mar.
  • Km. 43       El mar ahora está más cerca y se observa con mayor claridad con la Sierra de Irta perfectamente definida. Un extenso tapiz de olivos se extiende hacia la costa desde las faldas del Turmell y las montañas dels Ports que hemos atravesado.
  • Km. 46,7    Llegamos a Rosell entre pequeños huertos junto al barranco de Requena.

A partir de aquí, comenzaremos a contar la segunda etapa de nuestra travesía. Desconectaremos el ciclocomputador para poder dar una vuelta por la población si nos apetece, comer algo o descansar. También dispone de un pequeño hostal donde pernoctar.

Pondremos de nuevo el ciclocomputador a cero, justo frente al cuartel de la Guardia Civil ya en la salida de la población en dirección a San Rafael del Río y Canet lo Roig.

  • Km. 0         Cuartel de la Guardia Civil. Seguimos hacia San Rafael del Río por la carretera que sale de la población. Pero nos desviaremos inmediatamente hacia Canet lo Roig.
  • Km. 0,3      Importante. Nos desviamos en este cruce hacia la derecha en dirección a Canet lo Roig.
  • Km. 0,8      Pasamos junto a una granja.
  • Km. 3         Nos desviamos hacia la derecha en dirección a Traiguera. Hay también unas granjas junto a la carretera.
  • Km. 3,3      Seguimos hacia la izquierda. Vamos hacia Traiguera.
  • Km. 6,7      Importante. En esta bifurcación seguiremos hacia la derecha en dirección hacia Canet lo Roig.
  • Km. 7,4      Importante. Dejamos ya la carretera que se dirige hacia Canet lo Roig y nos desviamos por un camino de tierra, unos cien metros después de rebasar una rambla y tras el pequeño ascenso.
  • Km. 8,2      Pasamos junto a un algibe
  • Km. 8,3      Importante. Nos desviamos hacia la derecha. Vemos ya al fondo la rambla, que es en realidad de nuevo el riu Cervol.
  • Km. 8,9      Llegamos a una pista en mejor estado. Seguimos hacia la izquierda. Tenemos frente a nosotros al otro lado del riu Cervol la sierra Sola, una montaña aislada de pequeño tamaño que alcanza los 541m y que pertenece, en parte, a Traiguera. Hemos de bordearla por su vertiente norte para llegar a la población.
  • Km. 9,3      Seguimos hacia la derecha ya por camino asfaltado para descender al fondo del río y cruzarlo.
  • Km. 10,1    Cruzamos el cauce seco del Riu Cervol. Ya no lo volveremos a ver más en lo que nos queda de travesía.
  • Km. 10,8    Arriba. Salimos ahora del fondo del valle en un pequeño ascenso. Ya en la parte alta tendremos una magnífica vista dels Ports que van quedando atrás. La pista asfaltada da un giro brusco a la izquierda y comienza a descender.
  • Km. 11,9    Seguimos de frente.
  • Km. 12,6    Llegamos a un stop y continuamos hacia la derecha.
  • Km. 13       Seguimos a la izquierda en este cruce.
  • Km. 13,05  Seguimos a la derecha y vamos en dirección a Traiguera tras cruzar el vallecillo. Queda una antigua senda a nuestra izquierda
  • Km. 13,9    Ya vemos al fondo Traiguera que queda muy cerca.
  • Km. 14,6    Llegamos a un stop y Traiguera está frente a nosotros. Si necesitamos o queremos entrar en la población, habrá que desconectar el ciclocomputador y luego volver a este punto para seguir con mayor fiabilidad las indicaciones. Seguimos pues a nuestra izquierda en dirección a un rotonda que queda algo alejada de la población.
  • Km. 14,9    Llegamos a la rotonda y seguimos hacia la derecha bordeándola en parte.
  • Km. 15,3    Llegamos a otra rotonda. Ahora ya seguimos las indicaciones del Santuari de la Font de la Salud.
  • Km. 15,6    Llegamos a una nueva rotonda. Seguimos las indicaciones del Santuari y nos vamos alejando de Traiguera que queda a nuestras espaldas. Esta estrecha carretera es muy poco transitada. Vamos en dirección sur por un ancenstral camino de peregrinos que conduce al Real Santuario.
  • Km. 18,4    Real Santuari de la Mare de Deu de la Salud. Este lugar bien merece una detenida visita, tanto por la importancia cultural y patrimonial del conjunto como por el entorno donde se ubica. Fue hospedería real y alcanzó su apogeo en el siglo xx. Aquí tuvieron lugar acontecimientos trascendentales en la historia del Baix Maestrat. Seguiremos de frente una vez concluida la visita siguiendo la carretera que pasa junto a él quedando el Santuario a nuestra izquierda.
  • Km. 20,7    Llegamos a la carretera que va de San Jorge a Cervera del Maestre. La cruzamos y seguimos justo de frente por el camino de tierra que en buen estado sigue dirección a Cálig.
  • Km. 24,8    Llegamos a un cruce que seguiremos a la izquierda para atravesar la población de Cálig. Justo en este mismo cruce hay una pequeña ermita dedicada a San José. Pasaremos también junto al cementerio de la población.
  • Km. 25,3    Entramos a Cálig. Sin dejar en ningún momento la dirección de la carretera por la que venimos, ésta ya nos lleva sin problemas hasta Peñíscola. Hay un Peiró a la entrada de la población.
  • Km. 25,6    Cruzamos la carretera que viene de Cervera, la antigua que pasaba por la población, y seguimos de frente. Ya vamos saliendo de la población y quedan las últimas casas detrás de nosotros.
  • Km. 26       Llegamos a una rotonda y la bordeamos cruzando la carretera, descartándola por supuesto, para seguir a la derecha por el camino asfaltado que va hacia Peñíscola y en sus primeros metros va paralelo a la carretera nueva de Cervera del Maestre, Sant Mateu y Vinaroz, quedando ésta a la derecha algo más elevada.
  • Km. 27,2    En esta bifurcación seguimos hacia la izquierda. Está todo el camino asfaltado.
  • Km. 27,8    El paisaje está intensamente transformado. Todos los antiguos cultivos de secano ahora se han convertido en enormes fincas de naranjos regados a goteo. Comenzamos a ascender.
  • Km. 30,4    Llegamos a lo alto del collado donde queda un mojón de gran tamaño a la derecha de la carretera según llegamos. Desde aquí ya podemos ver Peníscola con su inconfundible silueta que se adentra en el mar. Comenzamos a descender.
  • Km. 32,8    Cruzamos por un puente las vías del ferrocarril.
  • Km. 33,9    Carretera Nacional. Mucho cuidado pues cruzarla es peligroso, sobre todo porque es muy transitada. Con la máxima precaución la cruzaremos y seguiremos de frente en clara dirección al mar y a Peñíscola.
  • Km. 39,5    Llegamos entre apartamentos, construcciones y tráfico a la rotonda que tras rodearla por la derecha y seguir hacia la izquierda bordeando la playa, nos lleva al puerto, punto final de nuestro viaje.
  • Km. 40       Puerto y murallas de Peñíscola. El lugar ideal para dar por concluida nuestra travesía es la fuente de la Petxina que nace en las mismas murallas. Fin de esta apasionante excursión entre el Castell de Morella y el Castell de Peñíscola.

Texto y fotografías: jM Almerich

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El Valle del Riu Cervol, 3.0 out of 5 based on 2 ratings
Categorías: Comunitat Valenciana, Grandes travesías
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José Manuel Almerich

José Manuel AlmerichEscritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]

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