Los sabinares de El Toro
En nuestra búsqueda constante por seguir practicando bicicleta en verano, el miércoles pasado recorrimos la sierra de El Toro. Mientras en la ciudad la temperatura alcanzaba a las cinco de la tarde los 37 grados, en el Toro era de 24º C. Y fue bajando a medida que ascendimos a uno de los parajes más sorprendentes y desconocidos de las montañas valencianas: la sierra de El Toro.
Pista de ascenso desde El Toro
De ella hemos hablado alguna vez, y también de su vegetación; una vegetación de altura, propia de climas fríos y reducto botánico de épocas glaciares. Lo que los científicos denominan «vegetación eurosiberiana» es un conjunto de especies adaptadas a bajas temperaturas, vientos extremos, pobreza de suelo y sequedad ambiental. Unas circunstancias que solo se dan en las sierras turolenses, en los lugares donde todavía se mantienen estas condiciones por su continentalidad y altitud.
La sierra de El Toro es una prolongación de una de estas sierras: Javalambre. Y por las montañas de la Salada, Peña Escabia y las navas de Torrijas y el Cerro de la Ceja, en la comarca de los Serranos, penetran en la Comunitat Valenciana. También por el Rincón de Ademuz, donde el Cerro Calderón, también parte de Javalambre, es la máxima altura del territorio valenciano. Como tal, estas estribaciones comparten la misma riqueza botánica y son las sabinas de montaña, o rastreras, la especie más representativa, conjuntamente con el pino rojo y el erizo o «coixet de monxa», como se la conoce popularmente (Erinacea Anthyllis), una mata de porte almohadillado con las ramas que terminan en punta cortante, flores características de color azul – violáceo. Una planta representativa de los piornales oromediterráneos, y que florece de forma muy temprana para la alta montaña desde mayo hasta julio.
Sabinas de montaña o rastreras, un paisaje único en el mundo
Este tipo de vegetación es indicativo también de altura, puesto que cuando observamos las primeras matas tanto de coixinet como de sabinas rastreras, sabemos que hemos alcanzado los 1400 sobre el nivel del mar. Una altura importante, que llega incluso en la sierra de El Toro a los 1600 m y donde el paisaje cambia radicalmente convirtiendo el entorno en un cuadro impresionista, una inmensa piel de leopardo donde las sabinas forman las manchas irregulares pero en un equilibrio perfecto, ya que estos matorrales de sabinas protegen en su interior durante las inclemencias a pequeños mamíferos y a otras especies de plantas, en especial gramíneas que no podrían crecer en estas circunstancias.
La niebla y las bajas temperaturas son frecuentes a medida que ganamos altura
La sierra de El Toro es para disfrutarla con calma y saborear la originalidad del entorno: los corrales, mudos testigos de una forma de vida rural siguen en pie, después de haber dado cobijo a los pastores y haber resguardado durante noches enteras a los corderos recién nacidos. También algunas masías dispersas, pocas, pues estas no eran tierras fáciles de conquistar ni amables con el hombre. Los ganados, ya inexistentes en la zona, han permitido que la cubierta vegetal se recupere rápidamente, al igual que las sabinas negrales y los carrascales al haberse abandonado, desde los años cincuenta, las talas para producir carbón. El agua ha sido generosa en estos últimos años y la montaña está ahora, en su mejor momento. Las trincheras que se abrieron en los pasos abiertos de montaña y amplios collados durante la Guerra Civil, siguen visibles como grandes cicatrices que poco a poco van siendo cubiertas por la vegetación.
Restos de trincheras cubiertas por la vegetación
La ruta que proponemos no asciende a las cotas más altas. Mas bien bordea la sierra ganando altura paulatinamente a partir de la aldea de Alcotas, primer núcleo urbano de Aragón, muy cerca del linde provincial de Castellón. Partiremos de El Toro siguiendo las marcas del recientemente marcado Centro de BTT del Alto Palancia. Unos kilómetros después de dejar atrás la población, seguiremos a la derecha por una pista forestal secundaria que tras ascender durante un tramo, sigue dirección norte buscando la aldea de Alcotas y atravesando un extraordinario sabinar donde cada ejemplar tiene más de seiscientos años de antigüedad. Cruzar un bosque que ya existía en la Edad Media es un privilegio del que pocas veces podremos presumir. Algunos ejemplares de Sabinas ya estaban vivas cuando llegó Jaime I y otras soportaron también las guerras y avatares de esta montaña a lo largo de la historia.
Sabina centenaria en la sierra de El Toro
En el camino que nos guiaremos por la orientación lógica, ya que va paralelo entre la sierra por cuyos piedemontes circulamos, y la carretera entre el Toro y Alcotas, llega por fín a esta última población para, una vez atravesada, salir de ella por la carretera que va hacia Manzanera.
Una pista de tierra, ancha, en buen estado y en fuerte pendiente nos indica que es el momento de abandonar la carretera y comenzar a ascender en dirección suroeste para, una vez descartados los desvíos secundarios a la derecha (uno de ellos baja a Manzanera por la Aldea de Paraiso Alto) y enfilarnos en dirección a Pozo Junco en dura, durísima, ascensión.
Desde allí bajaremos de nuevo al Toro, entre restos de corrales, sabinares de altura, carrascas y sabinas, de nuevo, las históricas que forman parte de nuestro patrimonio natural.
Corrales y parideras en la soledad más absoluta
Recorrer la sierra de El Toro en verano es un privilegio. Mientras necesitabamos forro polar en las alturas, a apenas una hora de coche la gente tomaba el baño en la Malvarrosa. Esta es una de las grandezas de la geografía valenciana, su diversidad y su verticalidad, su cambiante vegetación y su patrimonio cultural. Porque estas gentes, a pesar de la altura y la soledad, siguen siendo valencianas.
Texto y fotografías: José Manuel Almerich
Sugerencias
Los Abriles. Algo más que un hotel rural
Temas: Alcotas, El Toro, Javalambre, Sabinas, Sierra de El Toro
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{Hello|Hi} there, {simply|just} {turned into|became|was|become|changed
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Escritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]
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