Les Marines


Una ruta desde Oliva a Dénia por la orilla del mar.

Sí, sé que éste no es mi tema pero no he podido evitarlo, y no he podido tampoco dejar de transmitiros la experiencia de recorrer a pie, por la misma orilla del mar, uno de los tramos mejor conservados del litoral valenciano y que permite andar durante más de veinte kilómetros siguiendo la franja de arena entre la tierra y el agua.

El senderismo le corresponde a mi compañero blogger Salva Blanco, y yo debería ceñirme a las excursiones en BTT, pero en esta ocasión dejé la bici y saqué las botas, o mejor dicho, zapatillas, porque las más de seis horas de duración del trayecto pueden abrasarte las plantas de los pies, y tan solo deberemos descalzarnos al paso por los ríos y arroyos que desembocan en el mar procedentes de la Marjal de Pego o de las montañas interiores como el caso del Riu Girona.

Una experiencia inolvidable, un recorrido por nuestra esencia mediterránea con el medio de transporte más antiguo que existe: andar.

Por una vez, solo por esta vez, dejo la bicicleta y me pongo a caminar, para impregnarme del sol y de la luz mediterránea.

Os adjunto la crónica, vale la pena intentarlo.

No puedo imaginarme un verano sin mar, ni tampoco un mar que no sea el Mediterráneo. No puedo concebir una luz que no sea la que nos ciega todas las mañanas y cuyo reflejo sobre el agua produce minúsculos destellos como estrellas. Una luz que reverbera en la arena mojada e inquieta, y brilla con el vaivén de las olas como un infinito universo de piedras incandescentes.

Gironella decía que el Mediterráneo era un hombre disfrazado de mar y el escritor polaco Kapuscinski confesó que jamás había conocido un lugar donde la naturaleza se mostrase más amable y benévola con el ser humano que el Mediterráneo. Y que en él había de todo y a un tiempo; el sol, el frescor del viento, la transparencia del aire y el plateado brillo de sus aguas.

Hacía tiempo que tenía en mente la idea de impregnarme de este universo azul, de esta luz cimbreante y plateada desde la misma orilla y desde el mismo momento de su aparición, de ser navegante en tierra y andar por esa estrecha franja que como una línea ondulada, delimita los dos mundos. En la medida de mis posibilidades he recorrido a pie la práctica totalidad de la costa valenciana. Y en muchas ocasiones he corrido por la orilla para ganar tiempo y poder volver a recuperar en el mismo día, el medio de transporte. A veces también he utilizado la bici, pero solo cuando los caminos lo permitían. En esta ocasión han sido los pies los que han soportado la abrasión de la arena y el sol ascendente donde apenas una leve brisa minimiza el transcurrir de las horas. Pertrechado como si del desierto se tratase, comencé a caminar temprano desde la playa de Oliva. La idea era muy sencilla, recorrer la línea de costa que la separa del Cabo de San Antonio en un trayecto donde solo la arena, el agua y la sal han creado la esencia del paisaje. Bebida isotónica congelada, sombrero de ala ancha y crema solar en abundancia, una pequeña mochila, gafas de sol y zapatillas de montaña para tierra mojada. Este fue nuestro equipaje en una aventura tan cercana como interesante a la que mi hijo quiso acompañarme. Y entre el paisaje de aparente monotonía: la luz, siempre la luz, sería la que daría las tonalidades y las sombras a las dunas modeladas por el viento.

Desde Oliva comienza la inmensa playa virgen de Rabdells, donde los cordones dunares y las restingas de arena, protegen los últimos campos cultivados. Paraíso de windsurfistas, los últimos campings y chiringuitos dan paso a la soledad más absoluta. Atrás quedan figuras de cartón-piedra que semejan dioses y a lo lejos, el perfil de la Segaria que parece el rostro de un indio acostado. La playa va cambiando de textura según avanzamos y se alternan ríos y gravas, lagunas de agua dulce y rocas ocultas por la mareas. Los ríos Girona, Vedat, Molinell, Gallinera, Bullent o Racons desembocan en la misma arena como hace siglos, en un paisaje poco o nada alterado por el hombre. Sin escolleras que rompan el mar ni líneas rectas que lo encierren, los ríos se hacen libres a pesar de las olas que se empeñan en no dejarlos morir. En estos tramos es necesario descalzarse o buscar hacia el interior puentes que a veces, se encuentran muy alejados. La corriente limpia y fresca, recién nacida en la Font Salada o en los manantiales del corazón de la marjal de Pego, te empuja hacia el mar con la fuerza de la juventud y la suavidad del oleaje. Ríos de corto pero intenso recorrido que en su parte final forman pequeños estuarios de configuración caprichosa donde el hilo de agua dulce destellea entre la arena. Agua que durante la noche hervirá de vida cuando en la oscuridad miles de angulas, verrugatos y lubinas entren en las lagunas.

Casas en ruinas envueltas de cañas y tamarindos, campos yermos a la espera de agricultores que jamás volverán, chalets modernistas a punto de ser tragados por el mar y jardines enterrados por la arena con palmeras que mueren poco a poco, muros caídos y alguna escollera destruida por las tempestades. Paso a paso nos vamos acercando a les Marines y el castillo de Dénia se intuye difuso, enmarcado como un lienzo por las colosales paredes del Montgó. Dentro de poco comenzará a soplar con fuerza el Lleveig, un viento que supera las térmicas y que llevó a Parrés a Ibiza en seis horas. Y un viento también que ha convertido esta playa en la más importante de la península para la práctica del windsurf después de Tarifa. El Verger, les Devesses, la Almadraba, els Poblets, les Sorts de la Mar, Bahía Calma, la punta dels Molins, les Bovetes y la platja del Raset, son topónimos que sugieren un Mediterráneo lleno de humanidad, de vida, limpio de edificaciones y una costa virgen hasta hace apenas unas décadas. Y a mitad del camino una sugerencia: los Baños, un antiguo balneario en la misma orilla donde encontrar la paz inalterada del invierno o la brisa refrescante del verano. Un lugar donde descansar o comer, tomar un mojito de hielo picado con hierbabuena o simplemente dejarse llevar por un masaje tonificante para quitarse de encima, los ataques de rabia.

Supongo que alguno de mis amigos me condenará por contar este secreto, pero no creo que solo con palabras se altere la autenticidad de este lugar con olor a sal, relajante y tranquilizador. Un proverbio inglés decía que para aprender a rezar, había primero que conocer el mar. Poco a poco la playa se va cubriendo de sombrillas y los niños juegan con las olas. Ayudo a un anciano a salir del agua y un grupo de turistas rodean curiosos, una extraña criatura que se mueve perezosa, a merced de la corriente. La Posidonia forma colonias de gran extensión y su presencia indica la calidad y pureza que tiene el agua en esta zona. Como bosques que son, sus hojas caídas cubrirán en parte, la orilla del mar. Seis horas después, la escollera norte del puerto de Dénia nos impide el paso. Hará falta rebasarlo para seguir, camino de les Rotes, hacia la Punta Negra y el Parque Natural del Montgó.

La Marineta Cassiana marcará el final de nuestra ruta, una ruta de mar por el borde de la tierra, sencilla, reconfortante y enriquecedora, donde nada es lo que parece y todo cambia por momentos. Un reencuentro con nuestra esencia mediterránea, donde el suave balanceo de las olas es una invitación constante a viajar y buscar lo desconocido en el entorno más cercano, como cuando recorremos a pie las montañas, que no es más que la expresión física de nuestras pasiones.

Y como siempre, ahí van las fotos.
Espero que os gusten.

Ver las fotografías

Texto, crónica y fotografías: José Manuel Almerich

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Valoracion: 5.0/5 (1 voto)
Les Marines, 5.0 out of 5 based on 1 rating
Categorías: Comunitat Valenciana, Lugares con encanto
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José Manuel Almerich

José Manuel AlmerichEscritor, geógrafo y ciclista de montaña, José Manuel Almerich es un apasionado de la bicicleta por caminos forestales y divulgador por naturaleza del patrimonio rural valenciano. Viajero incansable, ha publicado [...]

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